I started writing this in Summer 2018. I haven’t travelled since and not sure I could.
I’m travelling again. I’ve never fully formed the thought, or god forbid said it out loud but I think that being away from home played a part in what we should honestly just start calling my breakdown. The inexorable tumbling of my Jenga blocks to a foot bruising mess on the floor, with a lay over in Dubai.
The history first, I’ve travelled for work before and it never bothered me. I did months in Colombo, working 14 hours a day, under constant pressure and isolated from my family, friends and any colleagues that I didn’t get a vague sense of hatred from. I was ably supported by the bar staff at my hotel who became so close to being family that they still recognised me years later. They protected me from sleazy guys and on my last night sent me off to the airport absolutely guttered with not even a bar tab to pay for. They were also VERY apologetic that they couldn’t give me free cigarettes. I love Colombo now – it’s noisy, inconvenient, and insanely hot. Whenever I arrive there, when most people are weirded out by jet lag and insane trishaw drivers, it’s the closest I have to coming home.
My first trip to Hong Kong followed right after a week in Colombo. I felt terribly glamourous boarding my flight from Colombo to Hong Kong, confident that a week of car horns being used instead of indicators and arguments over 50p tri rides would prepare me for what I was expecting to be the batshit lunacy of HK. It took me maybe 30 minutes to realise how fundamentally wrong I’d been. I stood in a crowd of a billion people on Nathan Road and realised that I was a total farm girl. I survived that initial week of weirdness, including being offered whole roast birds to eat. I don’t care if it’s polite to eat it or deep fried to fuck – I’m just not eating the beak of a small bird. I marvelled at the logistics of organising a million people that don’t seem to give a fuck about where they are supposed to stand on the MTR and took precisely two photos. Job done, mental health intact and a box of pink coloured but green tea flavoured Kit Kats to take home.
My second trip was a shit show from the start. I failed to book my travel properly and found out on the day of travel that I wasn’t actually travelling. I shamefacedly communicated to the people I was supposed to work with that I was a fuckwit and would be arriving a week later. I arrived after a much longer flight from the UK and issued Code Red demands for company of the people I knew were there. They’re good people so my first day in the office was an absolute train wreck, thanks to all of the drink. I have one of those strange, almost genetic memories, about that night though. I woke up to sun streaming in the window (too pissed to close the electric blinds you see) which should have been like hot knitting needles through a bruised mind but I felt absolute stillness and peace. Like I was the only person in the world and I was completely content. I can’t remember feeling like that since, and I’m not even sure I remember every really feeling like that before either. Any feelings of tranquility were shattered the next morning when I walked to work through the wet markets of Monk Kok. For context, imagine Ikea on a bank holiday, with no passive aggressive arrows on the floor, an impressively large number of people with no sense of personal space and the umistakeable stench of dead animals, and some live ones. I got to the office where I strung together hungover, rum and BBQ sauce tinged conversations and prayed for the day to be over. The day ended with a $72 pizza and a bed that couldn’t do enough for me. It stopped being quite so helpful four hours later when my body clock disagreed with my assessment of how fucked I was and decided it was time to get up. Awk, jet lag I thought, everyone gets jet lag and misses a bit of sleep. It continued all week which would have been a pain in the tits if I hadn’t learned how to use a VPN app and taught myself a bit of Korean from an early morning gameshow. The only night I slept properly that whole week was after a couple of apparently quiet drinks which resulted in me being woken by a good friend’s girlfriend gently telling me I needed to get off her sofa bed and go to work. She was equally gentle about it an hour later when she had to wake me again. She was good people too as she took me to get me a poorly planned tattoo. I slept then…the tattoo lady seemed vaguely bemused that I was the first person to fall asleep in her chair but it had been 4 nights on 3 hours sleep, you take it where you can.
In early 2017 I was offered the chance to go to Hong Kong for a month. I’d heard of greater minds than me taking it on for longer periods and then promptly losing their shit and demanding to come home. I wasn’t worried though, I’d prided myself on a granite like shell to protect me from stress and worry, there was good work to be done and I had a support team. I had friends from work going, people I knew and felt comfortable with, felt safe with. I promised myself I wouldn’t turn up for the first day of work as battered as my last trip but when my sleep avoidance alarm went off at 1 in the morning I maybe overdid what I thought was a genius solution to not sleeping. I drank the entire minibar. To myself. It doesn’t sound like a lot but every beer, every spirit, all the wine was consumed. In about an hour. Strangely I didn’t touch the Pringles. I sat and stared at the constant lights outside and wept. You could have asked me what was wrong and my only answer at that time would have been…I can’t sleep. Having had an over fondness for drink in another life, I recognised the desperate drinking I’d done. I don’t like rum but I inhaled it like I couldn’t breathe without it. Grim whisky, which now has a whole special face dedicated to it, was no problem. And when it was done I lay on an icy cold bathroom floor alone, occasionally crawling to the self flushing toilet to puke. And yes, it kept flushing on me before I could move my head. The next morning I had a designated driver to get me on the MTR and slope through a day of work. I’ve manfully worked through many a hangover but I couldn’t shake the disquiet that came with the knowledge that I’d tried to intentionally drink myself into a coma for the first time in years. The jet lag continued and was usually staved off by copious amounts of fun alcohol. Leary, peanut strewn bars and nights at the races with other shit heads made me feel like I was doing ok. Everyone does this here I thought…it’s fine. There was even nights when I didn’t drink. Instead I experimented with falling asleep through repeated episodes of West World. I still woke up after a couple of hours but there was no recurrence of Minibargate. I even went running – I was training for a marathon so I would take to Nathan Road at 5 in the morning, which is the only time Nathan Road is empty enough to run along. My support team shuffled me through the days, or some days shuffled along with me when we were effectively just a combined drain on society. I got left behind one morning as a result of winning shithead of the night award the previous evening . The prize was a polite call to my room to gently remind me to get up for breakfast followed by an even politer Whatsapp that it might be prudent to get the fuck up. I was furious. You never leave a man behind. Looking back I think it was probably another early warning sign…unjustified rage with the addition of a new and uncomfortable feeling. Dependency. Not on alcohol or drugs but in people. I hadn’t relied on anyone in years but my emotional state had become linked inextricably to whether someone would offer up “Iced Caramel Latte” at exactly the right moment, or tell me the thing I was wearing was ok before I could leave my hotel. Or that I was going a good job. Normal things…that normal people worry about. I came home after my month – fatter, a little more fragile and smoking again.
I stumbled through a trip to Kolkata later in the year and while I felt outwardly ok, when I looked back with the doctors and the therapy lady at Christmas I realised that it was after that trip that I stopped sleeping properly at home. I can’t remember (again) how shitty I felt in the months up to the last trip to Hong Kong. I think I was on some kind of autopilot, trying to keep everything going – work, a home, a charity – papering over the cracks, assuming that everyone felt this kind of stress. Surely I wasn’t doing any more than any one else did with their lives. I travelled for what I hoped was the last time, my intention being to get the job I needed to do done so I could rest. This time I travelled by myself with no support team and an already fractured brain. I actually found I stopped caring about the job I needed to do, I picked easy things to do, I stopped fighting with people to get a job done. I averaged a couple of hours sleep most nights and stopped even trying. I would sit up chatting on line to people back home, or anyone I knew who might be awake at the same time as me. I’m not sure all of them really realised that it was ridiculous for me to be talking to them, given where I was in the world compared to where they were. When I confessed my lack of sleep to one of my online voices they suggested that something to help me sleep wouldn’t hurt – I suspect they meant a warm bath and hot milk but I’d already heard of the easy availability of sleeping pills in Hong Kong. When I say heard, I mean frantically Googled and nearly cried when I found that one of these pharmacists was just round the corner from my hotel. Numbers are funny things – in the context of buying dodgy Chinese sleeping pills at least. If someone says 100, while nodding enthusiastically, why wouldn’t you think they meant 100mg tablets. Not “Here’s a family size bottle of narcotics to get you through the next week”. I clutched my tiny, over stuffed bottle of what I hoped was happiness and shuffled my way through the crowds back to my hotel room.
Let’s not be coy here – these bad boys work, and work hard. I had 6 hours of blissful un-interrupted sleep and, aside from that freshly crapped turd feeling in my mouth when I woke up, no other ill effects. Except I didn’t feel “better”. My brain was still overwhelmed and hiding itself in a fog on a daily basis. I emotionally limped through the rest of the trip and hoped the HK effect would wear off when I got home.
Two weeks later I cried on the short walk from the waiting room to the doctors office to confirm what I already knew. I was having a breakdown.